2/3/2024 0 Comments Longines heritage chronograph![]() The new Heritage Classic Chronograph Tuxedo takes design cues from a 1943 chronograph, a bi-compax chronograph with the same matte black hour track with Art Deco-like numerals, an opaline dial and blued tachymeter scale and chronograph hands. While Longines has yet to revive the hugely desired 13ZN chronograph (we tried to ask Vice-President Charles Villoz but he very cleverly evaded our questions), this has not stopped the brand from coming up with vintage-inspired chronographs that continue to make us dream. The drilled lugs are also a period detail that doesn’t go unnoticed. On the closed case back, the old-school Longines logo with the winged hourglass can be found. For its modern iterations in the Heritage line though, Longines has equipped its watches with a self-winding movement for convenience sake. Keeping to the ’40s aesthetic, Longines intentionally left out the “Automatic” label it typically includes on its self-winding timepieces, and kept the crown on the larger side in tribute to its historical watches that were hand-wound and featured larger crowns for winding. The movement beats at 25,200 mph and is equipped with a silicon balance spring. The 2020 version pays pretty faithful homage to the original, but is now 38.5mm in diameter and fitted with the Calibre L893 automatic movement, Longines’ take on the ETA A31.501. But noting the year - 1945 - and the legible dial layout and application of lume, the original watch was probably meant for the field. ![]() The black and white gives the watch an almost Art Deco vibe and a dressy feel - with a nickname like Tuxedo, you might even be convinced that the watch was made for jazz club and party-goers. Simple three-hand watches like these were a popular design in the 1940s and this one was special because it came with a matte black hour tracks with raised luminous Arabic numerals and a small seconds counter at 6 o’clock with snailing detail.
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